Tag Archives: Pakse

Bolaven Plateau, Laos – Sekong to Pakse

I woke up early morning and left Sekong pretty fast – as there is not much to see here. You can see my very cheap (and a bit run down) guest house on the photos – it doesn’t mean, however, that there were no other hotels around – quite the opposite, there is a large choice for such a remote town. The way back to Pakse was surprisingly smooth – just few kilometres were not paved. I have made a stop to see the main attraction and my purpose of this trip – breathtaking Nam Tok Katamtok waterfall. It is very easy to pass by without noticing it, the only sign pointing to its location is very small and barely visible. I am not sure if it is possible to come any closer to the waterfall itself – probably not – and I would never try just going there through the forest on my own, as it could be tragic if there were any UXOs (unexploded ordnances) left from the Indochina war.

On the way to Pakse I stopped by few coffee plantations and some other waterfalls – Tat Cham Pee and Tat E-Tu. My return to Pakse was delayed some good two hours, as it started to rain heavily while I was at one of those waterfalls – and it just wouldn’t stop for the entire two hours.

Next day morning I valiantly climbed the stairs of the neighbouring hill, where a large Buddha statue is located, together with a viewpoint. I took photos of Pakse from the other side of the Mekong river and continued my journey to the southernmost part of Laos – Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands).

From Sekong (A) to Pakse (B)

Bolaven Plateau, Laos – Pakse to Sekong

Bolaven Plateau is famous for its dramatic waterfalls, fertile soil, high-grade coffee plantations and its own micro climate. It is noticeably cooler than in neighbouring Pakse. Similar to Tha Khaek, there is also a “loop” available for adventurous tourists. It takes more time though (6 days which I didn’t have). But I really wanted to see the most beautiful waterfall in the area – Nam Tok Katamtok, which is also one of the more remote ones. In order to achieve this, I decided to go in one day from Pakse all the way to Sekong and then the next day come back using another route, going next to that waterfall.

I rented a new motorbike and made my way towards Bolaven Plateau in the direction of Paksong. I’ve made my first stop to see one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Laos – Tad Fan waterfall. Two parallel streams of the Huay Bang Lieng come out of dense forest and down more than 120 m. I saw the waterfall from the viewpoint at Tad Fane Resort. There is a possibility of taking a path to the waterfall itself, unfortunately I couldn’t take it as a real downpour came just minutes later. So I saw another popular waterfall nearby – Tat Yuang. Tat Yuang is 40 m high and there is a gazebo that allows you to enjoy the view.

I have tried the local coffee (delicious!) and continued my journey. I had to stop few times on the way as it rained once in a while – one of those stops I did in a very local restaurant where nobody spoke any English but kids were happy to pose for photos. I arrived in Sekong after dusk. There I had supper at Pha Thip restaurant which has interesting photos from Sekong province hanging on the walls. Since this is one of the most remote areas in Laos, photos show how scrap metal from the war is utilised in everyday life. I took photos of those photos and uploaded them at the end of the gallery as I think many of You will find them interesting (I also abstained from retouching them). I have spent the night in rather old an run-down (but very cheap) guest house, where my money supported malaria education group.

Bolaven Plateau – from Pakse (A) to Sekong (B)

Pakse, Wat Phu Champasak, Laos

As I ended my adventures in Tha Khaek, I moved on further south in Laos – to Pakse (or Pakxe), located a bit less than 350 km away. The bus ride takes about seven hours, though. Pakse was made in 1905 by French as an administrative outpost. The city is located at the confluence of Mekong and Se Don (Don river) and is the capital of Champasak province. The city has quite attractive location – to the west there is Thai border, to the east there is the fertile Bolaven Plateau (famous for its coffee plantations and many waterfalls), to the south is the way to Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands). The construction of Lao-Japanese bridge on Mekong in 2002 sped up the city’s development thanks to faster connection with Thailand. The city itself is just another lethargic Mekong city – it is more about being than seeing, so there is not much to see in the city itself. It is the perfect base to visit Wat Phu Champasak complex or Bolaven Plateau.

On the first day of my stay here I have rented a motorbike and went on in the direction of Wat Phu Champasak. It is an ancient Khmer (so the same style as Angkor in Cambodia) religious complex, I think the largest one outside of Cambodia. In 2001 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The complex spreads across 1400 m up to the lower slopes of Phu Pasak mountain range – 46 km away from Pakse. I got onto my freshly rented motorbike and hit the road. I followed the signs easily and everything looked nice until I have approached a small crowd of people. I asked for direction and was told that the main road is impassable, hence I have to take the small dirt path (on the photos). Intrigued by what was the reason behind all this, I stopped and came closer to the spot in which there should be a bridge – there I saw a reason for the road being impassable. The bridge was collapsed, and on what was left of it, in the valley there was a truck (just check out the photo!). The funny thing is, the trucks were in a convoy – the first one made it across the bridge but the second one wasn’t that lucky. The sign in front of the bridge said “No trucks with trailer” and “No vehicles over 15 T” – we can only guess how heavy the trucks were and for how long this ban was ignored by local drivers.

I continued my way then using the very local, narrow path (it’s hard to call it a road – see the photos) and happily arrived at Wat Phu Champasak. The site was worshipped since the 5th century but the remaining ruins are dated between 11th and 13th century. The entrance fee was about 5 euros (October 2014). Upon my arrival, it started to rain – luckily it stopped after some 30 minutes. It wasn’t heavy, but heavy enough to make photo taking really troublesome. In front of the ruins there are two large water ponds separated by the promenade. The ruins are quite well-preserved and are impressive – especially if you didn’t see the Angkok Wat in Cambodia. The location next to the mountain slope adds some charm. There are long stairs going uphill – and those stairs themselves make very interesting sight, especially in those places where trees are growing within them. At the top there are some objects connected to the site – like holy water spring, elephant stone or crocodile stone.

Before heading back I’ve noticed that my back tire was completely flat. In the village nearby I found the shop where a guy patched my tube for 1 euro. But upon arrival in Pakse there was almost no air left in the tube – I am not sure whether it was because of patching or I got a flat tire again – as I managed to return the motorbike before the tire went completely flat again.

From Pakse (A) to Wat Phu Champasak (or Vat Phou, B)